Matching Jacket for the Mathias Ackermann Cocktail Dress

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Materials:

Fabrics and notions

  • 1.5 m dupioni silk, 140 cm wide 
  • 1.5 m dupioni silk, 140 cm wide for facing and bias tapes 
  • Optional 1.5 m silk organza, 140 cm wide 
  • 1 m woven interlining (Vlieseline G785) 

Needles and thread
  • Sewing thread "Seralon" (Mettler)
  • Metallic thread "Gold 7 No. 40" (Madeira)
  • Overlocker thread (Mettler)

BERNINA accessories
  • BERNINA B 880 PLUS or a different model
  • BERNINA overlocker
  • BERNINA Binder Attachment 88 for unfolded bias tape 28 mm and
  • Binder Foot 95C

Downloading the pattern for the cocktail dress jacket

Download the pattern for the jacket here: Download pattern

Tip: Working with silk organza is haute couture. If you want the work to go faster, you can just leave out the double facing. Alternatively, the jacket can also be worked with a lining.
 

Cutting out the dupioni silk and (optional) silk organza

  • 2 x front piece
  • 2 x facing
  • 1 x back yoke on the fold
  • 2 x back piece
  • 1 x back facing on the fold
  • 2 x sleeve
  • 2 x sleeve facing
  • Optional bias tape for binding, 3 cm wide
 

Seam allowance: We recommend allowing 1.5 cm for all seams and 4 cm at the hems.
 

Instructions

Ironing

Iron the woven interlining onto all facings.

 

Sewing the pieces together

Baste the organza onto the silk and sew along the allowances.
 
Close the back center of the facing (collar and hem). Iron the allowances open and topstitch using metallic thread. Lay piece 2 onto piece 5, right side to right side, and close the shoulder seams. Sew the bottom collar edge of piece 2 onto the back neckline of the facing (piece 5).

 

Serging

Neaten all the seams on the overlocker. Use the 28 mm binder attachment for unfolded bias tapes and foot 95 and bind the seams with the bias binding (side seams, shoulder seams, back center seam, bottom sleeve seams, inside edges of the facing incl. sleeve facing).

Bild: Jacke zum Cocktail Kleid

Closing the seams

Close the back center (collar seam) on the front piece.

Close the shoulder seams. Pin the darts together and steadily pin the undercollar onto the back neckline. Starting from the darts and moving outwards, close the darts and the collar seam. Iron the seam allowances toward the front center and topstitch using metallic thread.

Bild: Jacke zum Cocktail Kleid

Close the rear center seam. Iron the seam allowances open and edgestitch using metallic thread. Close the side seams.

Bild: Jacke zum Cocktail Kleid

Back

Sew the yoke, right side to right side, onto the back piece. If necessary, bind the seam allowances and iron upwards. 

Picture: Cocktail dress jacket

Edgestitch the yoke.

Picture: Cocktail dress jacket

Sew the facing onto the jacket and the collar, then trim, turn, iron, and edgestitch the seam allowances in stages. Topstitch the collar and front again at a width of 3 cm.
 

Bild: Jacke zum Cocktail Kleid

Sewing the sleeves

Turn over the the facing on the sleeve hem. Close the sleeve seams. Sew in the sleeves. Bind the sleeve insertion seams with the binder attachment.

Iron the seam allowances into the jacket and edgestitch. Topstitch the sleeve hem about 1/4" from the edge.

 

Bild: Jacke zum Cocktail Kleid

Sew the jacket and the sleeve facing onto the organza.

Bild: Jacke zum Cocktail Kleid

Snaps

Sew the snaps on by hand.

Done!

The jacket is ready for your cocktail dress! We hope you enjoy making it!

You may be wondering which dress we are talking about. Take a look here.