Black Partydress with Golden Embroidery

Difficulty level Advanced
Time to Complete Weekend
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Materials

Fabric & notions
  • 2.2 – 2.9 m viscose fabric, 145 cm wide ( Hofstetter Switzerland)
  • Vilene
  • 2.5 – 2.8 m binding, 20 mm wide
  • 0.7 – 1.0 m elastic, 20 mm wide
Embroidery accessories Needle & thread
  • SUK needle, size 80
  • “Gold 3” metallic embroidery thread (Madeira)
BERNINA machine & accessories

Cutting out

Additional
  • Bias binding for neckline 60 – 70 cm, 3 cm wide
  • 2 strips for frills approx. 90 – 100 × 6 cm, finished width 3 cm
  • Drawstring waist, 96 – 122 × 3 cm

Bild: 125 years Kleid

Instructions

Sew sleeves to front section, leaving around 2 cm open at the neckline. For better placement of the embroidery design, open the motif in the embroidery software. In Print Preview, select the options “Artistic View”, “Hoop” and “Zoom 100%”, and print out. 

Stabilise the embroidery

Determine position of embroidery motif on the right side and mark roughly. Iron stabiliser to wrong side of fabric.

 

Bild: 125 years Kleid

Position the embroidery design

Hoop Filmoplast (self-adhesive tear-away embroidery stabiliser). Remove carrier film within the hoop. Position front section in hoop with the help of the design printout and the hoop template. Baste outside area of design and embroider paisley motif. For the left side, mirror the embroidery motif.

Close centre-back seam right-sides-facing below the marking. Press seam allowances apart and iron over the remaining slit edges.

Bild: 125 years Kleid

Sewing loops

Sew back edge of sleeve to back section. Sew loops: for this, fold binding in half and topstitch with the edgestitch foot. Attach a loop on the neckline of the back section on both the right and left at the outside edges on the seam allowance. With right sides facing, stitch together neckline of back section with the bias binding, catching the loops.

Bild: 125 years Kleid

Topstitching

Press bias binding inwards. Topstitch neckline and centre-back / slit in a single operation.

Bild: 125 years Kleid

Close top corner by hand

Sew seam allowance in top corner closed with a few hand stitches if wished.

Bild: 125 years Kleid

Bias-bind neckline

Edge front V-neck with the bias binding. For this, pin binding right-sides-facing to front section. Form binding in the corner into a “cone”.

Bild: 125 years Kleid

Sew up to the corner

Stitch on binding up to the corner; secure, and carry on sewing on the other side of the “cone”.

Bild: 125 years Kleid

Pressing

Clip seam allowance of front section in the centre-front up to the seam. Press “cone” flat. Press binding inwards and topstitch neckline.

Picture: Partykleid mit goldener Stickerei

Use the iron

Iron strips for ruffles lengthways along fold with wrong sides facing and sew together along the open edge with the ruffler foot (setting 12, stitch length approx. 3). Sew wrong side of ruffle to right side of armhole seam allowance. Bind armholes with the bias binding, turning under the beginning and end of the binding and sewing shut by hand.

Close the open 2 cm of the sleeve-/front joining seam.
 

Bild: 125 years Kleid

Sew binding onto front

Iron the remaining binding for the straps/tie in half and narrow-edgestitch. Cut into two pieces.
Secure one end of the binding below the corner of the front section under the ruffle in each case, and secure at the top point with hand stitching.

Bild: 125 years Kleid

Thread strap/tie through back

Thread straps/tie through the back sections.

Close side seams and sleeve seams in a single operation.
 

Bild: 125 years Kleid

Flounces for the sleeves

Hem sleeve flounces along the long edges and bottom edge. Pin flounces right-sides-facing to the sleeve hem – here, both long edges should lie along the marking on the sleeve pattern piece. Sew on flounce.  

Bild: 125 years Kleid

Wrap the waist

Close side seams of skirt sections. Sew skirt right-sides-facing to top section. Press seam allowances into top section.

Place casing strip over the seam inside such that one line of stitching meets up with the dividing seam and the second lies parallel to it in the top section at a distance of about 2.2 cm. Turn under beginning and end of casing strip and sew on casing from the right side. Pull elastic through opening in casing and sew together in waist circumference.
 

Bild: 125 years Kleid

As a last step

..hem the dress and you are done.

Off to the next party - your dress will be an eyecatcher!

You liked the instruction? Then check our website regularly. Our next tutorial promises a work of art with beautiful embroidery!