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In the inspiration Magazine Nr. 01/21 we have designed the cuts of the dress 121-20 and the skirt 121-17 with a cut button border. This is the fastest and easiest way to sew a button border. Depending on the fabric used there is no need to iron on a stabiliser.
For very thick fabrics, the second weft is omitted (in the illustration the area to the left of the green line) and iron-on stabiliser is used instead.
The top edges of the button border disappear in the collar or the waistband and the hems are finished, ironed up and topstitched.
No allowance needs to be added at the outer edgeof the front cut. Fold the front partinwards twice – once at the fold line (green) and again at the “front edge” line (red). Narrow-topstitch the long edge.
It is made of a separate cut piece, such as on the blouse 121-12, and is sewn right side on right side to the front part. This makes sense if, for example, the fabric width is not large enough for a cut button border or if special effects, such as a different stripe pattern, are to be achieved.
The extra button border is also an advantage if the upper and lower edges cannot disappear into the hem, the collar, or the waistband. To do this, finish the upper and lower edges of the button border by sewing and turning over right away after having sewn the button border on the front part.
To change a cut with cut facing into a cut with extra button border, the paper cutting pattern can easily be changed.
A button border should always be about twice as wide as the button. If buttons are used which are at least 2 mm larger or smaller than those indicated in the section, the distance from the centre front to the front edge and the facing width should be adjusted. The position of the front centre always remains unchanged!
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