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The Training & Education Team at BERNINA presents a series of diverse posts with the best tips and tricks to help you sewing successfully.
With these tips you will improve your machine embroidery skills.
This article explains what the differences are between the various threads for embroidery with the machine, how threads contribute to a good embroidery result or or what you need to consider when embroidering with special threads, e.g. metallic threads.
Machine embroidery threads differ from normal machine embroidery threads in that they are less twisted and can therefore spread out more evenly. This results in a much nicer embroidery appearance, especially with finer fabrics and detailed embroidery files.
Embroidery threads make the embroidery look much softer than if you were to embroider with sewing threads. In addition, the surface texture is usually smoother than with sewing threads.
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The choice is huge, there are shiny or matte embroidery threads made of cotton, viscose, polyester and even wool, besides metallic threads, each in different designs and strengths.
Purchased embroidery designs are mostly created for "normal" embroidery threads of strength 40.
The rayon and polyester threads are sometimes offered in the strength 60, these are finer and are used especially for very small fonts (5 mm letter size) or small detailed embroidery patterns.
Common embroidery threads are usually made of polyester or viscose (rayon).
Polyester embroidery threads are well suited for heavily used textiles, they are colorfast, some can even be washed up to 95° and have a higher tensile strength than rayon threads. Polyester embroidery threads are more durable and also suitable for high embroidery speeds, colors and luminosity are retained after frequent washing. Viscose yarns may be slightly softer than polyester.
Cotton threads are duller, not as abrasion resistant and rougher than polyester or viscose threads. Be sure to clean the hook area after embroidering with cotton threads.
Lower threads or bobbin fils have a higher run length because they are thinner, they are suitable for almost all applications. They are available in black and white and are not changed when changing colors.
Generally, a white bobbin thread is more likely to be used for light fabrics, unless you are embroidering with light colors on dark fabrics, in which case a white bobbin thread is also useful.
With transparent fabrics and free-standing lace, on the other hand, embroidery thread in the color of the upper thread is nevertheless often used as the bobbin thread, so the patterns are also beautiful on the reverse side.
When embroidering new designs, always carry out a test embroidery on the same material first. Each thread and pattern requires slightly different settings for embroidery speed and thread tension.
We recommend using the Horizontal Spool Pin. Always adjust the Spool Cap to the size of the spool, if necessary use a larger one rather than too small.
If the Horizontal Spool Holder is used, the spool should be fixed, whereas with the vertical holder, the swiveling spool holder, it must be able to move freely. If the thread is slippery, use the Spool Net. Use a special embroidery needle of a size suitable for the thread. Older threads, especially darker colors or older metallic threads break more often and should not be used.
After embroidering for a long time, the thread may twist in on itself. Then remove the thread spool from the machine and reinsert it upside down.
You can use normal sewing thread as bobbin thread for embroidery. However, note the following when embroidering with metallic threads:
The voluminous appearance of this yarn achieves quite different results than, for example, embroidery threads made of polyester, the motifs look almost hand-embroidered. For wool threads, you can only use embroidery patterns that have been specially created for this purpose. These patterns have a reduced embroidery density. The needle size should be No. 100, depending on the wool thread used. Unfortunately, these threads can not be washed hot, which limits the field of application.
One way of embroidering thicker thread, or cords, is to use the Free-Motion Couching Foot #43, where the cord is embroidered on by a normal thread.
The cords are fed directly to the needle through a hole in the sole, and can be sewn on in any direction you desire with the feed dog lowered – letting you create imaginative lines, patterns and shapes in no time flat.
Besides, you can also wind thicker yarns as bobbin thread, so called bobbinwork technique. In this technique, embroidery is done on the wrong side of the fabric. For this purpose, either a special bobbin case is used, or the machine is adjusted accordingly. More detailed information can be found in the user manuals of BERNINA machines. In each of these cases, however, the embroidery file must be adjusted for this.
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