Reversible Bomber Jacket

From Sweat/Knit

• 2 x front pieces from Fabric A / 2 x Front from Fabric B
• 1 x back piece on the fold from Fabric A / 1 x back piece on the fold from Fabric B
• 2 x sleeve from Fabric A / 2 x sleeve from Fabric B or C

Optional decorative flatlock sleeve: consider cutting additional length in sleeve to compensate for reduction of length created from flatlock seams.

From rib knit/knit

• 1 x Collar
• 1 x Waistband (Height 16 cm (6“) Width = Waist measured, minus 10 cm (4“), depending on the elasticity of the rib knit/knit. Finished waistband height 7 cm (2 - 2.5“).
• 2 x Sleeve cuff (Height 12 cm, (5“) Width = wrist measured, minus ca. 3 cm (1“), depending on the elasticity of the rib knit/knit. Finished wristband height 5 cm (1.5 - 2“).

Transfer all pattern markings to the fabrics.

• Consider adding pockets to the side seams or front of jacket. Plan before assembling the jacket.
• Add a designer label to jacket, a nice placement is the center back of the jacket, embroider or appliqué as desired before assembling the jacket.

• Bust darts, Zipper, straight stitch on sewing machine, stitch length 2.5 to 4
• Seams: 4-thread overlock, cutting width 6, stitch length 2.5 to 4
• Decorative flatlock on sleeve: 3-thread flatlock with left needle, cutting width 6, stitch length 1.5 to 2.5
• Contrasting fabric insert on sleeve: 3-thread overlock with right needle, cutting width 6 (for a 4 mm wide stitch), stitch length 1.5 to 2.5

As for the first steps, sew al pieces from fabric A and fabric B in the same manner, essentially making two jackets.

1. Sew the darts

Sew the darts on the front with a straight stitch on the sewing machine.

Press the darts of fabric A towards the shoulder line, press the darts of fabric B towards the waistline, to reduce bulk.

2. Optional decorative sleeve

In case decorating the sleeves with flatlock and contrasting fabric, stitch it now: 

For the flatlock, fold the sleeve wrong sides together and sew, using a short stitch length.

When sewing a contrasting fabric to the sleeve, use a narrow 3-thread overlock, also using a shorter stitch length.

3. Sew the shoulder seams

Pin the front to the back along the shoulder seam with right sides together. Sew shoulder seam with 4-thread overlock. Press seam allowances from fabric A and fabric B in opposite directions, to reduce bulk.

4. Sew the side seams

Pin the front to the back along the side seams with right sides together. Sew the side seams with 4-thread overlock. Press seam allowances from fabric A and fabric B in opposite directions.

5. Sew the sleeves

Pin the sleeve seams together with right sides together. Sew the seam with 4-thread overlock. Press seam allowances from fabric A and fabric B in opposite directions.

6. Attach sleeves to jacket armholes

Pin the sleeve into the armhole, right sides together. Stitch. Press the seam allowance towards the sleeve side if required.

7. Attach the Collar to fabric A

Fold the collar in half, wrong side together, and press. Mark the center of the collar. Mark the rear center on both jackets fabric A and B.

8. Sewing the collar

Pin the collar, right sides together, to fabric A. Sew with a 4-thread overlock.
 

9. Attach the Collar to fabric B

Pin fabric B onto the collar, right sides together. Sew with a 4-thread overlock, exactly on the first seam.

10. Sew the Waistband

Mark the center of the waistband on the long sides of waistband. Then mark quarter sections on the long sides of the waistband.

Mark the center back on the bottom edge of both jacket backs, fabric A and fabric B. Then mark the quarter sections.

Pin the waistband right sides together on jacket fabric A, stretching the band to fit the jacket. Sew together.

11. Repeat

Repeat for the other side, i.e. pin the waistband right sides together on jacket fabric B, stretching the band to fit the jacket. Sew together.

12. Sew the sleeve cuffs

Fold the sleeve cuffs along shorts sides with right sides together. Sew with a 4-thread overlock.

Fold the cuffs in half and press.

Divide cuffs into quarters and mark.

Divide sleeves of fabric A and fabric B into quarters and mark. Pin cuffs to sleeves of fabric A, right sides facing.

13. Sleeves

Turn the jacket, right side outside. Then stick the sleeves of Fabric B into the sleeves of Fabric A. Be careful not to twist the sleeves. Use two pins as reference marks to stabilize.
 

14. Turn the sleeves to the wrong side

Pin cuffs to sleeves of fabric B, right sides together. 

Sew together with a 4-thread overlock, stitch length 3 – 4, cutting width plus 1, to avoid cutting the first seam.

15. Turn

Turn the jacket, right side outside.
 

16. Zipper insertion

On the waistband, mark the edge fold.

Open the zipper.

Pin zipper right side onto right side of fabric A, while pressing the seam allowance of the waistband towards the jacket side (because the seam allowances are sewn together later for better fit).

Stitch the zipper with the sewing machine, using a straight stitch and a stitch length of 3 to 4.

17. Sew seam allowances together

Pin the seam allowances of the waistband together, starting approx. 5 cm (2”) distance from zipper, all around the waistline.

Sew together with a 4-thread overlock and a stitch length of 3 – 4. Deactivate the knife to avoid cutting into the first seams.

This will stabilize the waistband for a better fit.

18. Finale

Turn under the seam allowance of fabric B, press if required. Use Wondertape to baste-fix the jacket fabric B onto the zipper.

Topstitch with the sewing machine and a straight stitch.
 

19. Ironing

Press Zipper seam and waistband edge. Done!



Original jacket of L 850 Campaign: Fabric Design by Jolijou - www.jolijou.com, Fabrics supplied by Swafing