The golden embroidery designs on the sleeves and the back are embroidered onto tulle. To ensure the stability of the delicate material, two layers of water-soluble stabilizer are required. When working with metallic thread, it is recommended that you use the BERNINA Thread Lubrication Unit. This makes the thread smoother so there are fewer thread breaks.
We hope you enjoy making it!
Tips for working with metallic thread
- Reduce the upper thread tension
- Use the Thread Lubrication Unit and a spool net
- Insert the straight stitch plate
- Reduce the speed
- Because of the metal thread, turn off the automatic thread cutter in the setup program
- Use at least two layers of water-soluble embroidery stabilizer. Do not use old stabilizer under any circumstances - it will have hardened and will quickly tear your thread. If necessary, put an additional layer of thinner water-soluble stabilizer on top.
- Use a SUK 80 needle
Arranging the embroidery design
The individual embroidery patterns can be assembled as you want them directly on the BERNINA 880 PLUS. If you are working with a different machine, we recommend that you arrange the design using BERNINA Embroidery Software 8. This will allow you to individually review the whole design for the back piece and the sleeve. Then place the whole pattern in individual hoopings.
How to create the lace
In addition, you can embroider individual designs on the leftover tulle and place them freely on the front and back of the hip yoke of the dress.
Rinse out the stabilizer and allow to dry. Embroidering the arranged embroidery designs on the tulle creates the lace effect.
From the lace created, cut out the left sleeve 7 cm longer than the right (using piece 9); make sure to leave a seam allowance. Cut out the left back piece using piece 4, cutting without a seam allowance in the back center.
Close the dart on the front piece. Iron the seam allowances toward the center and topstitch using metallic thread.
Sew the upper front piece to the lower front piece with the right sides together. Iron the seam allowances upwards and topstitch along the seam.
Close the dart on the upper right back piece. Instead of sewing the dart into the lace on the left back piece, the width of the dart is deducted, evenly distributed between the back center and the side seam.
Sew the hip yoke underneath the lace according to the notches.
Sew the zipper panel onto the left back piece (lace) with the right sides together.
Sew in the zipper, top stitch the panel. Sew the other side of the zipper onto the right upper back piece.
Back pieces and neckline
Bind the neckline of the left back piece with bias tape.
Sew together the drapé pieces, right side to right side, along both longitudinal seams and the neckline seam. Turn the right way and iron. Topstitch along the longitudinal seams and the neckline with metallic thread. Pin the drapè piece onto the shoulder and underneath onto the back piece according to the notches.
On the lower back pieces, close the back center seam up to the start of the slit. Sew on the upper back pieces.
Close the shoulder and side seams.
Pin the bottom sleeve seam of the lace sleeve wrong side to right side and sew by hand, working around the embroidery design. Trim the overlap on the back.
Close the bottom sleeve seam of the silk sleeve.
Hem and sew in both sleeves.
Close the right shoulder seam on the facing. Turn over the neckline and topstitch the edges of the front and back separately.
Attach the upper drapé piece corner to the left upper piece with a snap.
Sew the hems of the dress. Fold over the edges of the slit and topstitch the bottom edge. Topstitch the top end of the slit through all the layers on a slant.
Cut out the leftover elements from the tulle embroidery and arrange them as you like on the front, the side seam, and the hip yoke, and sew them on by hand.
Congratulations! You've just completed your work of art! We hope you have fun making this project and rake in a lot of compliments! :)