Sewing instructions - Kaffe Fassett Hatbox Quilt by Liza Prior Lucy

Make this quilt your own by choosing your favorite fabrics and colors. However, if you fell in love with one of the Kaffe fabrics used for this project, here is a list of their names:

• A "Jumble" design in color "Seafoam"
• B "Jumble" design in color "Lime"
• C "Aboriginal Dot" design in color "Wisteria"
• D "Cactus Flower" design in color "Tawny"
• E "Sharks Teeth" design in color "Blue"
• F "Guinea Flower" design in color "Lavender"

• Trace templates for the Hatbox top, bottom and band.  Mark each one so it is clear which side is the right side. The pieces are not symmetrical.

• Cut the background pieces:
  1. For side wall, cut 1 rectangle 4 1/2” x 12 7/8”
  2. For the floor, cut 1 rectangle 4 1/2" x 12 7/8”
  3. For the back wall cut 1 square 8 1/2" by 8 1/2"
• Using the 45-degree mark on the rotary ruler, cut off the ends of the side wall and floor as shown.

• Sew the background together using ¼” set-in seam:
  1. Sew the side wall to the floor, starting at the point and stopping ¼” from the end.
  2. Press the seam open.

• Align the back wall square with the side wall rectangle. Sew from the top and stop ¼ “ from the end (needle in the fabric).
• Put the needle down in this position.

• Use the Free Hand System to raise the presser foot and swivel the pieces so that the bottom of the square aligns with the floor rectangle. Lower the presser foot and sew to the end.

• Your set-in seam will look like this.

• Using the templates, draw with pencil a Hatbox top and bottom from the same fabric.
• Using scissors cut out both pieces.

• Lightly draw the band shape on a plain fabric. Do not cut it out.
• Place stabilizer behind the band shape and do a decorative stitch down the center of the band. 
• Cut out and carefully remove the stabilizer so not to stretch the band out of shape.

• Place stabilizer behind the pieced background.
• Measure up from the bottom 2 ¼” and measure in from the side wall 2 ½” and put a pencil dot. Place the Hatbox bottom piece on this dot and align the edge of the right side of the Hatbox bottom with the right edge of the background.
• Pin in place through the fabric and stabilizer.

• Measure down 2 1/4” from the top of the background and place the Hatbox top so the top edge is on the 2 ¼” and the right edge of the Hatbox top aligns with the edge of the background.
• Pin through the fabric and the stablizer.

• Using the blanket stitch and bright orange thread, stitch along the outside edges of the top and bottom. There will be a gap between the pieces. Do not stitch there.

• Place the band over the gap and be sure to leave a bit of a lip on the left side so that the band goes about ¼” beyond the edge of the Hatbox bottom and overlaps some of the stitched area of the Hatbox top. 
• Pin in place.

• Blanket stitch around the band.
• Remove the stabilizer and the block is complete.
• Repeat for a total of four blocks.

For a 2x2 blocks quilt, cut:

• 12 rectangles 2 1/2” x 12 1/2" for sashing
• 9 squares 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" for cornerstones

• Cut 36” square backing.
• Layer backing, batting, and quilt top, centering the top over the larger backing and batting.
• Baste layers with quilt basting spray or basting pins.
• Quilt as desired.

• Trim backing and batting to the size of the quilt top and square up.
• Cut 4 WOF strips by 2 1/2” (or 2 1/4” if you prefer a narrow binding).
• Sew strips short end to short end to create continuous binding strip.
• Press strip in half lengthwise.
• Follow the instructions in this tutorial to sew the binding to the quilt.